🛠️ Invention or technique

Mordant block-printed cotton (chintz)

Estampado de algodón con bloques y mordientes (chintz)

Date
c. 1000 · confidence low
Place
Gujarat, India
Credited to
Dyers and printers of Gujarat
Field
Tools

What it is

Different mordants (alum, iron) were printed or painted onto cotton and, when the cloth was dyed in madder or indigo, each area took on a fast, washable colour. Gujarati fragments found at Fustat (Egypt) show massive trade in these textiles.

The technique is much older than the dated Fustat fragments (10th-15th centuries), but no earlier Indian pieces survive because of the climate.

What it led to

  • export of Indian textiles to the Islamic world, Africa and Europe
  • bans on chintz in France (1686) and England (Calico Acts, 1700-1721)
  • European printing industry (Mulhouse, Lancashire)
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Sources✓ verified 2026-09-23