🛠️ Invention or technique

Narrow-strip loom cotton textiles (Tellem)

Tejidos de algodón en telar de banda estrecha (tellem)

Date
c. 1050 · confidence medium
Place
Tellem caves, Bandiagara escarpment, Mali
Credited to
Tellem people
Field
Tools

What it is

Cotton textiles woven in narrow strips sewn together, made on a treadle loom with double heddles, preserved in dry burial caves. They are the oldest narrow-strip loom textiles of West Africa.

Studied by Rita Bolland (1991). The narrow-strip loom may have arrived with trans-Saharan trade, but its development and variety are African.

What it led to

  • the kente, bogolan and other strip-woven textile traditions
  • cloth as currency and a prestige good
  • the cotton trade across the Sahel
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